Robertson IEA432T8120N (3P20135) Electronic Fluorescent Ballast, for 3 or 4 T8 Fluorescent lamps between 17W-32W (F17T8 through F32T8) or 3 F40T8 Lamps, Instant Start, 120V (Qty 1)

Working perfectly good product for a very good price

I ordered this ballast for a standard T8 (1" diameter lamps) fluorescent fixture that didn't work. None of the bulbs showed any sign of life but I had input voltage. Replacing the ballast was easy. Turn off the breaker or switch to the fixture. Disconnect the input wires (black and white) and cut the rest of the wires near the ballast. Remove the old ballast and connect the red, blue, and yellow wires using wire nuts designed for 16-22 ga. wire (usually colored blue and not included). The wires are solid and need to be pretwisted before putting on the wire nut which can done with any pliers. The wire nut alone will not properly connect the wires. There is no polarity for the colors and can be connected either way as long as the colors match. Now hook up the supply lines and reassemble.

Well, I have a 4 tube light in the kitchen. I'm installing replacement doors on the cabinets, and one morning the light didn't come on. I need to see what I'm doing. Pulled the light switch and it was good. Put my meter leads in the old wire nuts in the light fixture and it was getting power. I immediately ordered this replacement. It came fairly quickly. Easy install: the base/mounting fit the mounting points in the light housing in the same position. The lines were more than long enough, in fact I had to trim them down to fit just right. Light works fine now. Don't hear any noise from the transformer/ballast. Also a lot cheaper than the other options. Got no complaints.

I have purchased these ballasts twice. I had no trouble with my first one, and it worked beautifully. However my most recent one completely failed shortly after the 30-day return window closed. [UPDATE: Robertson's customer service was excellent, and they refunded my money even though it was past the Amazon return window, so I've change my review to 4 stars since my first ballast had no issues.] When I first installed it, I also installed 4 brand new somewhat pricey Sylvania 32W T8 high CRI fluorescent blubs because my old bulbs were pretty dark on the ends. The install went fine, and the light worked, but I could see flickering and visible ripples in all 4 bulbs. I thought it might just need some hours on the bulbs, so I left it on for a few days, and didn't think much more of it. There was still some flicker, but it seemed better. Fast-forward to yesterday, when I flipped on the switch, and nothing happened. I checked the breaker, and checked for 120V at the fixture, and can definitely see power there -- it's just completely dead, with no sign of even trying to light any of the bulbs. So now I'm left with another dead ballast, and need to find an alternative to Amazon's recommendation.

I purchased the Robertson IEA432T8120N ballast to replace a failed Hatch HL432RIS/12/W unit. The Hatch ballast was original to a 4x T8 fixture. The ballast is perfect-sized and fit the existing mounting slots and screwhole that the Hatch unit was previously installed in. So far so good with the new ballast. A few notes of caution and advice for anyone buying this ballast: 1) Take pictures of the wiring of your fixture BEFORE cutting the old ballast loose. DO NOT cut the wires too short. Make note of how long the new wires will be and how far they need to reach to connect to the fixture's wires. Your ballast may have red and blue wires exiting one end of the ballast and yellow out the other. My Hatch ballast was like this. The Robertson has red, blue, and yellow exiting one end. Which means your yellow wires will need to reach backward along the length of the ballast to the fixture's yellow wires to make a connection. Take pictures, do a little planning, cut wires long, and you'll be fine. 2) The new ballast comes packaged without any wire nuts or inline wire connectors. If you don't have any on hand (most non-electricians or non-handy people won't), you will need to buy them to complete the installation. I recommend Ideal brand tan wire nuts. Your ceiling box will be either 12ga or 14ga wires. The ballast's wires are 20ga. A red wire nut is too large for a 20ga wire. The tan model 30-341P will be just fine (https://amzn.to/4pIGk2n). And it will also work for your 20ga ballast wire to 20ga fixture wire connections. You will need 8-10 depending on your fixture's wiring. As an alternative, this would also be an acceptable place to use a lever connector instead of a wire twist nut. The Ideal 30-01L23 would be perfect here. This will be much easier for most non-electricians. This is a 3-wire model but will also work just fine for 2-wire needs: https://amzn.to/49Pv0Mb 3) When in doubt, call an electrician. This would be a very simple 30-60m job for an electrician. Better safe than sorry.

Works great!

Great product at a really good price. If you are using this electronic ballast to replace dual magnetic ballasts in a 4-Light fixture prepare yourself to completely re-wire the light fixture. Not particularly difficult if you follow the wiring diagram supplied with the ballast, but tedious none the less. You have to access and re wire the individual lamp sockets, as the white leads are not brought out and accessible in many of the old 4-light fixtures. May not be for the novice, but the end result is an instant-on fixture with absolutely no flicker.

Worked perfectly easy hook up

Tel que la description

Shipped quick, worked great!

Fast shipped AAA+++