KMA2700 Accu-Cut - Universal Track Saw Guide System - Cuts up to 50" Long - No Clamps Needed - Make Straight, Cross, Rip & Angled Cuts Easily - Circular Saw Guide - Woodworking Tool

I was hesitant about buying this because of some of the bad reviews, but I have been a fan of Kreg tools for a while. Now that I have this particular saw track by them, I realize the bad reviews are just user error. To be honest, my first cut nicked the side of the track (just the blue plastic, little bits came off. Okay... I adjusted the saw. I did a few test cuts, lined up the guide on the front accordingly, and that was pretty much It. I used both my old basic Skil saw and a saw by Galaxy Pro and was getting... okay cuts. Finally, I realized that every time I would line the saw up at the beginning of the track, I would nudge it just a bit so that the end would rock one way or another. Okay... so then I just started using a clamp at the other end. with that, straight cuts. After a few days of straight cuts, I noticed my cuts kept veering off to the right no matter what I did when cutting one particularly dense piece of wood with a finishing blade. I thought the issue was the track until I switched blades. The new blade had no issues, once again straight cuts. What was the issue? The small amount of "play" in the track was causing me to let the saw not track perfectly evenly. The cuts were coming out straight, but when I took a closer look, there were almost unnoticeable turns and sliding. It was less than a millimeter difference, but when I thought about it, this mean the blade was spinning while bending through those slight turns. So, the issue; I caused that finishing blade to overheat and warp. The solution to that was the recognize why there is a little play in the track and the base you put the saw on. Without it, there would be no movement. Also, no one cuts in straight lines. You either track to the left or to the right usually. So, just keep saw to the left or right depending how you have it set up, and your cuts will be straight with no minor movement left and right. Instead of complaining about that minor play, use it to your advantage; that's why it's there. I learned that I tend to track to the left, so I gently push the saw to the left on the track as I let it glide down each cut. It took a lot of trial and error to get this right, and thank goodness it came with two tracks. One of my errors was not properly aligning the base on the track and I ended up sawing through about an inch and a half of the aluminum. Fortunately, I just turned it around and put the blue starting piece at the other end and now, that cut end has no effect on anything. Now that I am used to it, yes, I will likely go ahead and buy another set as I am, indeed, getting straight cuts out of this thing. Now that I've learned how it works (not just a simple "align and cut" kind of thing), I'll say the accuracy is 100%. As far as ease of use, well, I had to learn how to use it right, and I had to figure out things like why there was a small amount of play in the track and base. 4 stars for ease of use, though I'd give it 5 stars if it was easier to connect and disconnect the two tracks. As far as value for money, well, the price is far more expensive than, say the Kreg KMA2685 Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide, which I also bought at the same time. Both are quite useful, but this track is far more useful and easier to keep aligned. It's worth the money, though I must say that because of the Kreg KMA2685 Rip-Cut Circular Saw Guide, my right angles are perfect now. Update 11/2021 I'm still using these and I'm still so glad I bought them. I have become quite good at using these. I've learned that, for whatever reason, I have an easier time if I don't use clamps on it when I use it, and I don't use the blue plastic guide that it came with that is supposed to help you align the right angle. I use the laser on the saw itself to help align it all and then I rip whatever I need. You simply have to have the wood you're cutting on a flat surface with support on both sides of the boards you're cutting for larger pieces. I also find this works better with finishing or smooth cut blades (those with more teeth) than the standard blades that come with the saw. Once, I was careless and didn't have the saw aligned on the tracks (thought I did, but was rushing) and ended up cutting about 1 inch into the track itself. It was my own fault for rushing. It hasn't affected the use of it at all, though. I will also say that the farther I set the blade away from the track, I stopped having the issue of the blade wanting to pull or jump. It also doesn't hurt to grease the bottom of the guide or the track just a little; these are two flat surfaces rubbing and sliding against each other all the time. Seeing how this product has helped me so much and how easy it is to use once you work out the quirks, I will likely order another set of these for those super long cuts I sometimes have, and also to just replace the track that I damaged being careless.

I found this to be a very good guide that makes straight cuts and reduces chipping significantly. Some reviews chastise the Accu-cut because of some play between the sled and the track. You can't really expect a perfect precision tool for $80. Besides, if you tape the inside of the sled like the very helpful product videos suggest, the guide can be a very accurate. I found it a little tricky to set up my saw on the sled. Maybe some kind of cam mechanism would be better than the set screws for attaching saws? However, my saw is very old and maybe newer ones might be easier. Now to customer service. When I assembled the track I found that one of the set screws had bad threads. It was tough to find a similar screw locally so I emailed Kreg support. Within about 5 minutes they responded and I was quickly able get replacement screws sent to me. The parts showed up within a few days. I rarely get service like this anymore. Kudos to Kreg! Overall I'm very pleased with my purchase!

Absolutely pleased with the Kreg brand. Once the rail was set up made cutting and ripping a breeze. Use caution on warped or curved material because obviously the grips won't hold. Use a clamp or two with it. The only thing I am not impressed with it the rail guides underneath that connect the rails. I accidentally let the rails fall while standing them up to change sheets of plywood and not the connecting pieces are slightly bent and I have to find a replacement. Went on the manufacturer website and am having trouble finding just those pieces without buing a complete set up.

This tool is so handy for the price. Its quality steel makes it good for several years use. The large size makes it easy to make precise cuts. It is compatible with ryobi my circular saw.

I should have purchased one of these years ago.

First, the bad.....do not trust that the track is square and on your marks using the square on the starting block. Always line the track up with your marks manually. The first cut I made with this product up the 8' side of a 4x8 the cut was way off. I learned after that to make my marks and line it up myself. Measure twice, cut once. Ugh. Now the good. There's lots of good. This system rocks. Cutting 4x8 sheets has never been so easy. It took a little while to get it set up for my saw but once it was locked in, it was good. I didn't notice any side-to-side play between the sled and the track. I wish I had this 20 years ago. Life would have been so much easier. I made a table out of folding saw horses and topped them with a 4x8 3/4" OSB and then topped the OSB with a $25 2" rigid foam R-10 insulation board from the big box store. Then laid my stock on top of that and ripped away, through my wood, and into the foam. No more big pieces of plywood falling off the end of the table on to to my toes while splintering the end of the cut. No more contorting my body leaning way over the board with a dangerous saw in my hands just waiting to take off my fingers as I dodge the falling cutoff piece. True straight cuts. Finally, a system that makes cutting 4x8 sheets truly a one-person operation. Well built. Made with quality materials up to the task. Well written easy instructions that left no questions.

This is a good idea but the execution is poor. The track itself is excellent: precise build, stays in place with friction alone, doesn't get out of alignment. The aluminum rods joining the track together are self-aligning and snug, and with the aluminum track you have a very rigid straight edge. Unfortunately, the same cannot be said of the sled. The plastic is very flimsy. There's too much slop between the sled and the track, so your saw will tend to wander a fraction, although with practice you can minimize this. However, he biggest problem is the mechanism to attach the saw to the sled. My fourth-grade son could have designed something better. When you tighten the screws down on my saw (dewalt cordless) the base of the sled pushes away from the base of the saw at an angle, such that the sled does not make full contact with the track when cutting because of the resulting bow in the base. If I don't tighten the screws down, the sled and saw tend to lose alignment during a cut and I end up taking out more of the sacrificial edge from the track. I always know I have a bad cut when I see blue plastic shavings mixed in with the sawdust. Some suggestions to Kreg for improvement: 1. Use a more rigid material for the sled. If not actual metal then a much more rigid plastic. 2. Come up with a fastening mechanism that allows the saw to be fastened both fore and aft to prevent wandering. 3. Provide a mechanism for adjusting the angle of the block at the front of the sled so saws with steeper front angles on their base naturally sit flush with the sled when tightened down. 4. Use a stop piece that runs the length of the saw base, not just at the front. 5. Reduce the play between the sled grooves and the tracks. I would happily pay twice the price with these fixes.

The warning signs were apparent from the beginning. The set screws used to join/hold components together, for some reason, were shallow crosses for a phillips screwdriver instead of hex head where you cannot put much torque on the screw. I spent two days trying to figure how to attach the saw to the sled. The written directions and CAD generated images are very poor. It is very difficult to align the saw to the sled when you have to lift a heavy saw with one hand and align it with a saw blade to sled with the other hand. I own a Ridgid, 7 1/4, worm drive saw and was able to use only one of the two clamps on this tool because there was not enough adjustablity in the sled for the second clamp to reach the saw base. I also could not understand why they chose to use screws with a sharp point instead of nylon-tipped screws. After I went through the trouble to see where all this was headed, the feature that enables you to remove the sled from your saw with idea that you will be able to reassemble it in the same place, had the same problem - slots not long enough to accommodate different saw manufacturers. There is a part identified in the manual as a Handle, Part P - no where in the manual does it say what you are supposed to do with it or how it is used. One final comment, if the piece of wood you want to cut is not flat, the guide will not stay put as they claim- why they have not incorporated a way to securely clamp the guide for peace of mind is another problem with this device. I was really hoping that this tool would work so I won't spend time making a temporary guide.